Thursday 29 December 2005 – Te Kaha to Mahia Beach
Trip: SH35: Te Kaha – Waikawa Point – Whanaroa Bay – Raukokore - Waihau
Bay – Whangapararoa – Potaka – Hicks Bay – Tokata – Te Araroa – Awatere –
Tikitiki – Whakwhitiea - Ruatoria – Te Puia Springs – Tokomaru Bay – Anaura
Bay – Kaiaua – Tolaga Bay – Wainui Beach – Gisborne – SH2 – Manutuke – Muriwai –
Morere – Nuhaka – off SH2 – Opoutama – Mahia Beach
End Mileage: 173673
Start Mileage: 172293
Distance Travelled: 380
Up and away from the camp site by 7:45am. (Worked well doing the shower
thing the night before!) We were woken to the sounds of birds in the trees/hedges
and then, oh joy, whinging children in the tent behind us – YAY we could leave
them all behind.
We’d decided rather than have breakfast at the campsite with a view of, hmmm,
hedges and other people camping we’d stop at somewhere on the way that looked
out to something better. Well we were on a coast road and anywhere has got to
be better than hedges and people. So about 8:30am we pulled off to cook bacon
and bagels and of course have coffee for breakfast.
We found the local vege on the side of the road about 15km past Te Kaha.
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Home office for a new government
party in New Zealand.
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Tough life this camping! We stopped at a bay opposite the Church we’d seen
the day before for breakfast, after all why have it at the camp site looking
at hedges (and hearing parents yelling at their children.
Looking back at Te Pihopatanga O Aotearoa Church.
Breakfast spot, hard to find a view not worth stopping at.
| House across the road with a tree
that shows the direction of the prevailing wind.:
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Local bird life, a duck!
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Back past Hicks Bay of course, well we were on the same road from yesterday’s
trip to the Cape!
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Some other bay on the coast road – plenty
of coast, plenty of beaches!
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I was then allowed to drive so off to Te Araroa – got there about 10:40am and
it was good that we’d done the lighthouse the day before, not just for the
time saved today but that walk UP to the lighthouse would have been horrific
in the heat of the day! Filled up with diesel and then off to Tikitiki and
we were now on the Gisborne Road. Plenty to stop and see on the way (ok, so
actually there was plenty to stop and see on any of the roads we were on).
Even did a slight side trip to Ruatoria at 11:30am. Clean public toilets!
Didn’t stop for too long – not a lot there that we wanted to see. Didn’t see
anyone wearing a tea cosy hat though.
Then next stop was at Tokomaru Bay at 12:30pm. The buildings that were used are
still there, in disrepair – all over grown and crumbling.
Tokomaru Bay
This is where the first shipment of frozen meat was from. The entire complex
was built around 1900 and closed down after World War II.
The company was formed in 1909, the works built 1910-1911. Bought by Gisborne
Sheepfarmers Frozen Meat Co 1920, then by Borthwhicks in 1944.
On opening the works handled 500 sheep and 60 cattle daily. A large cold store
straddling the stream to the north was added in 1917.
The N.Z. Shipping Co Store housed the offices of the Tokomaru Bay Harbour Board.
A tramway connected the store to the works and the wharf. Steam locomotive lower
level. Horse power in the upper level was later replaced with diesel. Lighters
serviced local and overseas shipping.
When road transport was difficult these works played a vital part in the economy
of this area creating steady employment in the industry and in the stores and
businesses which flourished in Tokomaru Bay. But falling stock numbers, erosion
and World War II altered the economy – road transport improved and the works were
no longer needed. They were closed in 1953.
BILITY outside the store house.
| View of some of the old buildings from the wharf:
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| We walked along the wharf which is being restored and
there were a few people fishing off it:
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Views from the wharf out to sea.
Looking back to shore from the wharf.
Attempts at arty shots from the wharf!
Various shots of the ruins and buildings around Tokomaru Bay.
| A Pohutukawa tree growing in the side of the
wall – they’ll try (and usually succeed) to grow anywhere:
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Left there just on 1pm and the next stop was at Tolaga Bay (there by 1:30pm).
The wharf there is under repair and the entrance is semi boarded off. But
everyone still seems to be walking on it so we did the same, who are we to go
against the set trend! People at the end jumping of the wharf into the water.
Huge camp site at Tolaga Bay (it was full when we tried to book and we were
laughed at). There were quite a few people around enjoying the day and the
beach.
Tolaga Bay Wharf
Said to be the longest wharf on the East Coast of New Zealand.
Increasing Need for a Wharf: Just after the turn of the century a Farmer’s
Co-operative Company had erected a wharf in the mouth of the Uawa River at
Tolaga Bay as a loading-out port for lighters taking cargo out to the ships
in the roadstead. This wharf was also used by scows which could cross the bar
at high tide on calm days.
In 1908 control of the wharf passed to Uawa County Council which sat at the
Harbour Board. As early as 1913 there was local interest in a jetty outside
the river. In 1919 Tolaga Bay formed it’s own elected Harbour Board and rates
were imposed on the Harbour District from early 1920 onwards.
The Building of the Wharf: on 13 November 1924, Federick Goodman of Kaiti
Bridge, Gisborne, signed a contract with the Harbour Board for the construction
of a wharf and road for the sum of £60,331. In February 1925 G. D. White-Parsons
was appointed Resident Engineer and Inspector of Works.
As the construction of the wharf progressed, heavy seas caused much damage to the
new piles resulting in delays and £70,000 loan being expended well before completion
of the project.
On 22 November 1929, the wharf and shed were officially opened. The Hon. J. G.
Cobbe, Minister of Marine officiated. The opening was marred by a terrible
accident when a truck pulling a rail wagon loaded with people down the wharf
passed ships tied up at bollards; four women with legs dangling over the side
had their legs crushed.
1929 – 1940 – The “Hey Day”: The opening of the Tolaga Bay Wharf enabled larger
coasters to load alongside and for many years the Richardson & Company coasters
Kopara called regularly.
In December of 1929, soon after the wharf opening, the Bencruachan, a ship
chartered to Geo. H. Scales, was the first overseas ship to load at Tolaga Bay.
However, even as the Tolaga Bay Wharf opened, improved roading and motor vehicles
had begun to compete with coastal shipping, especially on short hauls. It was
ironic that much of the cargo that passed over the wharf was road-making material
used to construct the road through to Gisborne, thus providing an alternate means
of transport.
The onset of the Depression greatly reduced the amount of cargo going through the
port. One hundred and thirty-two vessels worked Tolaga Bay in 1936, but by 1939
only eighty-eight called. Trade was further reduced by the war which centralised
shipping control.
The Decline: In November 1960 the Harbour Board considered the falling off of
trade to the port, and decided that rather than replace the existing Harbour
Master (who had tendered his resignation), to pass the control of the wharf over
to the Uawa County Council, who accepted. On 29 November 1961 the final meeting
of the Harbour Board was held.
In November 1963 the southern side of the wharf was closed to shipping due to
damage and deterioration. A report on the condition of the wharf from a Mr Booth
gave the structure a conservative 15 year life in 1965. I.H. Lowe (Lowe's Fishing
Co.) was permitted to establish a fishing base on the wharf in 1968. 1968 also
marked the closure of the port for shipping. In 1977 Cook County banned all
vehicular traffic on the wharf.
The Resurrection: The wharf in 1998. No longer part of a registered port and
considered too dangerous for vehicular traffic or berthage, the structure has
evolved into a very popular fishing place for locals and tourists alike, and
particularly for travellers, a challenge, because of its unusual length and
the high scenic value of its environment.
| BILITY parked in the shade:
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Tolaga Bay from the start of the wharf:
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| The Wharf from the beach:
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Looking out from the beach end of the wharf.
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| Rex at the end of the wharf:
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Sea views from the wharf.
| Looking back down the wharf and out to the beach:
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| Looking from the end of the Wharf back to the beach:
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We then had a quick look at Makorori Beach just before Gisborne. Slightly built
up – well row of houses on the water front as such. A few were for sale, the
sort of places that go for insane amounts just because they are on the water and
not far from a town.
All along the coast on this next stretch to Gisborne was an amazing number of
people camping (tents and campers). Gisborne District Council allows freedom
camping with a purchase of a license of some kind and it is obviously very
popular. Again some lovely beaches and locations to camp at.
Coast road on way to Gisborne.
Next stop was Gisborne – made it there just before 4pm and found an open café
so had a coffee. Also went to The Warehouse to get a sheet each as easier at
night than the sleeping bag liner and there was not really any need for anything
heavier at night! We went for a walk around down town Gisborne – not too bad!
Bit dingy down one area but looks like we did start at the wrong end of town.
They have the apartment challenge as well on their marina – a few being built
and for sale but the sun goes off them quite quickly, even in summer.
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Downtown Gisborne, the city clock.
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Downtown Gisborne.
We drove along the beach front and came across a huge number of cars and people. Think there was one of the free summer concerts happening! Again a really full looking camp ground as well.
Left Gisborne about 5pm and our next stop was the camp ground we were staying at – Mahia Beach. We got there around 6:30pm so not too bad a day considering the distance we’d driven. Not our longest day (so far).
Found our site and sussed out what was where. This camp site was busy – people (of all ages) everywhere. The 16 year old girls were busy “strolling” around the place and 5 or 10 minutes later the boys would be following! Lots of young families as well with Dad (or Mum) being followed by a toddler who was “helping” with the cooking/cleaning-up.
Dinner this time was fresh corn on the cob with chops and salad. Again “we” did the cooking in the camp site kitchen but ate in the camper.
Set up the camper with Christmas lights around it – well we’d booked a powered site so may as well use the power! Then sat back and watched camp life around us. Always someone going somewhere, be it teenagers “cruising”, slightly younger kids trying to look older or the toddlers following a parent around “helping”.
BILITY views at the Mahia Beach camp ground.
| The view from the back door:
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BILITY settled in at Mahia Beach:
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| Christmas lights on the camper:
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